Saturday, October 4, 2014

Bohemian Colored Glass Perfume Atomizers 1901 Advertisements

Bohemian colored glass perfume atomizers from an antique Victorian/Edwardian 1901-02 A. C. McClurg & Co. publication. Many of the atomizers are gilded and the designs are reminiscent of Moser. I also like the ones that have the ormolu footed mountings. Note that they have the "Aladdin's lamp" style atomizer hardware. Some of the atomizer bulbs are netted, some are not. One example is a combination puff box and atomizer.




























Quadruple Plate Perfume Atomizers 1896 Advertisement

Quadruple Plate Atomizer Perfume Bottles and Vinaigrettes shown in an antique Victorian 1896 Advertisement from the Busiest House in America (Lapp and Flershem, Chicago).










Celluloid Perfume Atomizers 1927 Catalog Advertisement

Celluloid Perfume Atomizers shown in the 1927 advertisement for the N. Shure Co. Catalog. While it doesn't mention the manufacturer of the bottles, they were made by Cambridge glass, the celluloid (pyralin, a pyroxylin plastic) was made by Dupont Viscoloid Company, Inc. and the hardware was made by Vant Woud.


No. 2146 -Pearloid (celluloid) on amber. Glass container (vial) inside to hold perfume. Rubber bulb. Gold-plated trimmings. Size 6.5" tall x 2.5" diameter. Vant Woud mounting.





  • N
    o. 2147 -Decorated amber. Glass container (vial) inside to hold perfume. Rubber bulb. Size 4 5/8" tall x 2.5" diameter.
  • No. 2148 -Pearloid (celluloid) on amber. Glass container (vial) inside to hold perfume. Rubber bulb. Gold-plated trimmings. Size 4.5" tall x 2.5" diameter. Vant Woud mounting.
  • No. 2149 -Pearloid (celluloid) on amber. Glass container (vial) inside to hold perfume. Rubber bulb. Gold-plated trimmings. Size 5" tall x 2.5" diameter.
  • No. 2150 -Pink pearl (celluloid) on amber. Glass container (vial) inside to hold perfume. Rubber bulb. Gold-plated trimmings. Size 4.5" tall x 2.75" diameter.



No. 2151 -Red opaque on French ivory (celluloid) base. Rubber bulb. Gold-plated trimmings. Glass container. Size 6.5" tall x 2.5" diameter.


  • No. 2152 -Red opaque on French ivory (celluloid) base. Glass container. Rubber bulb. Gold-plated trimmings. Size 4.5" tall x 2.25" diameter.
  • No. 2153 -Plain amber (celluloid body). Glass container (vial). Rubber bulb. Gold-plated trimmings. Size 4.5" tall x 3" wide.





  • No. 2154 -White on amber (celluloid). Glass container (vial) to hold perfume. Rubber bulb. Gold-plated trimmings. Size 4" tall x 2" wide.
  • No. 2155 - Amber (celluloid). Glass container (vial) to hold perfume.. Rubber bulb. Gold-plated trimmings. Size 4" tall x 2.5" wide.


Czech Crystal Atomizers 1934 Advertisement

Czech crystal perfume atomizers and bottles shown in a 1934 L & C Mayers Co publication. The company imported many items from Czechoslovakia during this time period.











Sunday, September 7, 2014

The Successful Resurrection of Marcel Franck


Good news! The Marcel Franck perfume atomizer company has been resurrected under new ownership of Bernard Dennery, who is the grandson of Marcel Franck and great grandson of Leopold Franck, who first entered the world of perfume atomizers and founded the company in 1882.

The Marcel Franck company blossomed after it's unique atomizers topped bottles from affluent perfume companies like Molinard, Worth and D'Orsay all the while lending even more value to the flacons themselves from the prestigious French glassmakers of Galle, Baccarat, Lalique and Saint-Louis. Collectors of perfume flacons may be more familiar with these examples than the general public.

The company thrived in the atomizer business up until the 1970s, when mass made simple spray mechanisms were favored over the refined examples that the Marcel Franck company was known for and the company ceased operations in 2001.

Beginning in 2011, under leadership of Mr. Dennery, the restored company has created new and improved atomizers based on the original Art Deco 1935 designs of the patented Escale and the Fizz atomizer, which uses the Venturi method of vaporization instead of the usual bulb style. These atomizers have been internally redesigned using the latest technological advances to ensure optimal operation and are 100% made in France.

The Escale is offered in two versions: one with a spray mechanism integrated in the mount (for which, a new patent has been filed) and the other with the traditional Venturi system. Not only does the company produce the atomizer hardware, but in keeping with the company's heritage, it manages to incorporate exquisite art glass flacons hand crafted in Murano Italy or by other talented European glass/crystal blowers in combination with their atomizers, so that one may fill their bottle with their favorite perfume. A special Baccarat crystal flacon, an updated example of a version first used in 1955, is also offered, this time, topped with a palladium plated atomizer.

Marcel Franck is also finishing the development of a revamped version of the old Le Weekend, a beautiful and extremely successful ladies hand bag atomizer. This new atomizer will integrate a system which will allow it to be filled directly from sealed perfume bottles by pumping out the perfume, similar to how the Travalo atomizer works, but more refined and luxurious.

Luxury is again in vogue with the proliferation of niche and smaller private perfume companies popping up and wanting something much more deserving of an opulent perfume, a chic flacon with an elegant atomizer to match. And this is exactly what they will find in the Marcel Franck atomizers and flacons, which are not only pleasing to the eye, but will help keep the perfume preserved due to their distinctive airtight hardware, made up of brass and electroplated in either palladium or gold.











If you have a perfume company and are looking to incorporate the highest quality atomizer hardware, please contact Bernard Dennery via email at contact@marcelfranck.com

Marcel Franck 
15 avenue du Recteur Poincaré 75016 PARIS 

Phone +33(0)6 26 49 06 54


If you are looking to purchase a Marcel Franck atomizer for personal use, you may find them at these retailers:

LIQUIDES 
9 rue de Normandie 75003 Paris France 

THEODORA HAUTE PARFUMERIE 
Grand-Rue 38, 1204 Genève Switzerland 

OSSWALD 
Bahnhofstrasse 17, Paradeplatz, 8001 Zurich Switzerland 

ANTICA ERBORISTERIA INGLESE 
Via de’ Tornabuoni, 19N, 50123 Florence Italy 

LA BOUTIQUE DU PALACE 
Lausanne Palace, Grand-Chene 7-9, 1002 Lausanne, Switzerland 

ROJA DOVE HAUTE PARFUMERIE 
Urban Retreat, 5th Floor, Harrods, 87-125 Brompton Road, Knightsbridge, London 5W1X 7XL, UK 

O100 
« Plaza » Olaya Street, Riyadh City, Show room number 10, Saudi Arabia

Monday, August 18, 2014

Daum-Nancy Cased Cranberry Cameo Glass Pump Atomizer c1900

Gorgeous c1900 Daum perfume atomizer, cased cranberry cameo glass, gilt detail, hand-tooled silvered hardware (functional pump, refillable).

Carved Daum-Nancy mark. "TM" mark for Theophilus Martin.

Bottle stands 3 5/8" tall.

Pre-Auction Estimate: $550-$650. Sold for $500 at the 2013 Perfume Bottles Auction.


Friday, August 15, 2014

Piston Pump or Plunger Perfume Atomizers

In this guide I will introduce you to the world of the antique and vintage piston pump type of perfume atomizers. These bottles were meant for travel and had a leak proof design and are cylindrical in shape. The date range for these unique perfume bottles is 1900-1940s. The travel atomizers you will most likely come across date from 1900-1920s.



Notions and Fancy Goods, Volume 44, 1910:
"Introduction of the Pump Variety. Not long after the invention of the bulb atomizers, what is now known as the pump variety, was introduced, but never became very popular, probably owing to the difficulty in handling them. Considerable objection was made to them by women who complained that their hands and gloves became soiled in using them, the liquid oozing out during the operation of raising and lowering the piston, which was necessary to create the spray. Another objection to this style, was their tendency to get out of order, on account of the intricate valves with which they were provided. 
At about this time, a Bohemian manufacturer put on the market, an atomizer that combined the features of both the bulb and pump atomizer already referred to. This new atomizer, instead of having a rubber bulb, had a pump running in a glass tube acting as a piston rod. The head of this rod also acted as a spray inducer. The same disagreeable features appeared in this atomizer as existed in the earlier pump varieties, and in consequence, it was a very short lived innovation."


Dry Goods Economist, Volume 66, Issue 3, 1912:
"Quadruple Perfume Atomizer. Paris is just now greatly interested in quadruple perfume spray that was originated, and is being marketed by Sarah Felix, a producer of general toilet lines. This new spray or atomizer -one of was purchased in Paris by the DRY ECONOMIST, and is shown in two positions on this page - is of the pump type, and consists of a large bottle, having enclosed four separate or mated bottles in about an ounce for holding that number of different odors. The four bottles have individual spray pipes leading to outlets or small capped nozzles of the larger bottle.


The spray pipes have small cocks on the interior, making it possible for the user to spray any single odor, several odors, or all four may be sprayed instantaneously, thus forming a mélange of the odors by opening all the cocks at once. In addition to the cut offs concealed within the bottle, each vent is equipped with a screw cap, thus making accidental leakage an impossibility. The spraying is done by means of a spring pump forcing the air through the single or several open vents, when the perfume comes out through the row of keys resembling small knobs, seen at the front of the bottle in the illustration. 
The upper section of the atomizer is of nickel plated metal, in which is located the pump. The outer base is of etched glass and is 2 1/4 inches in diameter. The small vent caps are attached by chains to prevent their being lost and the whole object measures 6 inches in height. In a limited way, this new style of atomizer has been offered to the American trade in the nickel and in the gold plated styles, either of which has a retail value of about $7.50."

During the 19th century, the parisian perfumery of Sarah Felix was famous especially for her cosmetic "L'Eau des Fées" ("Water of the Fairies"), a beard and hair dye.  This name was trademarked in 1887 by J. Bloch of Paris trading as Sarah Felix of 43 rue Richu, Paris. Sarah Felix, sister of the famous actress Rachel, exercised several jobs before becoming perfumer. At first, she too was an actress, then she tried oyster culture in Normandy, most likely for the pearls. Abandoning these activities, Sarah Felix became a true businesswoman in Paris. She dedicated herself to perfumery, in particular to her infamous "L'Eau des Fées", from 1866. To help launch this product, she was associated with an engineer, a pharmacist, and a physician. She also benefited from the protection of the imperial family. A lawsuit between the associates and the 1870 war hindered the company's early days, but "L'Eau des Fées" persevered and became the company's best selling product. The "Parfumerie des Fées" completed the range of its cosmetics with creams, powders, etc.

The four chambered atomizer was invented and patented under the Sarah Felix name in 1912. It was called the "Vaporisateur des Fees". The Sarah Félix company was still owned by Bloch and by 1920 was known as Robert Bloch of Paris, who specialized in these atomizers with multiple "jets".








Opening & Closing

Some buyers may be interested in seeing if your bottle's plunger works.

To open, place your finger or thumb on top of the plunger, press and turn counterclockwise a quarter turn. The plunger should pop right up. Now press down onto the plunger several times and see if air is emitted from the nozzle. You could also fill the bottle with water to see if it will spray.

To close, place your finger or thumb onto the plunger, then the plunger pushes down into the mount head and locks in with a quarter turn clockwise. Do not try to pry the plunger off of the mount head or you will snap it off. Unfortunately, I have seen the remnants and damage caused by people unaware of how to open or close these properly.


Cleaning

Looking at your bottle , the mount has two parts, the upper part and the lower part, to open the bottle to clean it out or to add perfume, you can place your hand around the top part above the seam and give it a twist. These are usually on pretty tight, try some WD40 or other lubricant in the seam, but don't attempt damage by using pliers or other tools to try to get it open.When you get the bottle open, look at the very bottom of the plunger mount, sometimes you can find mount manufacturer's markings here on this part of the metal. A soaking in vinegar often removes verdigris from brass mountings. You can use a small brush to scrub away any stubborn verdigris.

Mountings

The bottles have small nozzles from which the perfume was emitted. To guard against leakage, these nozzles had a tiny screw on cap which attached to the mount by a little chain.

The hardware mounts were made of brass, bronze, silver, gold, pewter, or molded lead. They were generally plated with gold, silver or nickel, and in the 1930s, chrome. Most of the atomizer hardware was Made in France, but others were made here in America and in England. French hardware is usually marked "Brevete" , "Depose" , "Modele Depose", or "Bte. SGDG".

People often mistake these markings for manufacturer's marks but in reality:
  • Brevete means " Patented" 
  • Depose means " registered" 
  • Marque de Fabrique: this word means trade mark.
  • Marque déposée: trademark
  • Modele Depose: Registered Design
  • Bté. SGDG: means " patented." It is shortened from the phrase Breveté Sans Garantie du Gouvernement  which means " Patented without State Guarantee."
One mark you should look for is the "TM" logo for Theophilus Martin, a French silversmith operating around 1904. His mountings can usually be found on Daum-Nancy, Galle and other bottles.




The Bottles

The glass for the atomizer bottles were usually French, Bohemian, American or English. Baccarat was responsible for many of the heavy cut glass  bottles you may find in your travels. Other companies such as Lalique, Galle, Saint-Louis and Daum Nancy also made bottles for these atomizers. The glass is rarely marked, but sometimes you might find the acid etchings of Lalique, Daum Nancy and Baccarat. Lalique bottles often have atomizer mounts by Marcas et Dardel (often misspelled Marcas et Bardel) and Marcel Franck.

Extremely rare bottles may have dual, triple or quadruple chambered compartments for different scents, each with its own nozzle.

Marcel Franck

 The major company that dominated the scene was the firm of Marcel Franck. Marcel Franck still manufactures atomizer hardware for perfume bottles today. Marcel Franck had French patents for his perfume atomizer hardware, most prolific was "L'Escale", "Fizz", and "Le Kid".

The atomizer mountings marked "La Provencale" and "Le Parisien"were attributed to Marcel Franck, but current information assures us that it is not the work of Marcel Franck, "Le Parisien" was used by Marcas et Dardel. Some of these mounts were engraved, molded or tooled with floral designs or other motifs.

The Jewelers' Circular, Volume 87, 1923:
"In this same illustration is shown "Le Parisien," an atomizer of distinction. It is of Baccarat crystal, hand painted and decorated and of genuine Galle's etched glass. The tops are of nickel, silver or gold plate. In style and construction they are  quite different from the usual atomizer."



The mid 1920s, brought forth the Le Kid atomizers by Marcel Franck were meant for the purse or pocket. They were smaller versions of the piston pump atomizers and came in a variety of finishes in materials such as the extremely popular mother of pearl, lizard skin, enamel, nickel plate, snake skin, brass, shagreen,  galalith (French Bakelite), gold plate, tortoiseshell, enamel, eel skin.

c1923 advertisement for Le Kid and Floris, atomizers by Marcel Franck.




Marcel Franck's Le Kid atomizers proved so popular that a rival company, Aromys of Paris decided to create their own version of the little purse atomizer which they called L'Aiglon (the Eaglette) in 1929, in three different sizes, and marketed them for " the purse, the pocket or the voyage". L'Aiglon was also available in a variety of finishes such as enamel, mother of pearl, galalith, rhodoid (an early plastic), nacrolaque (a plastic similar to Bakelite) and brass.




Bijou (maker unknown at this time):


Dry Goods Economist, Volume 66, Issue 4, 1912:
"Miniature Pocket Atomizer. Illustrated on this page is a neat pocket atomizer imported by the ECONOMIST, but which can be obtained in this market, is about 3 inches in length and 3/4 inch width. It unscrews from the top for filling purposes.
The little nozzle on the side, at the top, is where the spray is forced. At the end of the chain is attached, a small screw cap. Which covers the nozzle when not in use. The atomizer works on the order of a bicycle pump. In nickel, it retails for 50 cents and up according to finish. It can also be gold plated. There is also on the market, a large all-metal atomizer heavily nickel plated which is an improvement over the average atomizer."