Daum-Nancy Cased Cranberry Cameo Glass Pump Atomizer c1900

Gorgeous c1900 Daum perfume atomizer, cased cranberry cameo glass, gilt detail, hand-tooled silvered hardware (functional pump, refillable).

Carved Daum-Nancy mark. "TM" mark for Theophilus Martin.

Bottle stands 3 5/8" tall.

Pre-Auction Estimate: $550-$650. Sold for $500 at the 2013 Perfume Bottles Auction.

Piston Pump or Plunger Perfume Atomizers

In this guide I will introduce you to the world of the antique and vintage piston pump type of perfume atomizers. These bottles were meant for travel and had a leak proof design and are cylindrical in shape. The date range for these unique perfume bottles is 1900-1940s. The travel atomizers you will most likely come across date from 1900-1920s.



Notions and Fancy Goods, Volume 44, 1910:

"Introduction of the Pump Variety. Not long after the invention of the bulb atomizers, what is now known as the pump variety, was introduced, but never became very popular, probably owing to the difficulty in handling them. Considerable objection was made to them by women who complained that their hands and gloves became soiled in using them, the liquid oozing out during the operation of raising and lowering the piston, which was necessary to create the spray. Another objection to this style, was their tendency to get out of order, on account of the intricate valves with which they were provided. 

At about this time, a Bohemian manufacturer put on the market, an atomizer that combined the features of both the bulb and pump atomizer already referred to. This new atomizer, instead of having a rubber bulb, had a pump running in a glass tube acting as a piston rod. The head of this rod also acted as a spray inducer. The same disagreeable features appeared in this atomizer as existed in the earlier pump varieties, and in consequence, it was a very short lived innovation."

Dry Goods Economist, Volume 66, Issue 3, 1912:

"Quadruple Perfume Atomizer. Paris is just now greatly interested in quadruple perfume spray that was originated, and is being marketed by Sarah Felix, a producer of general toilet lines. This new spray or atomizer -one of was purchased in Paris by the DRY ECONOMIST, and is shown in two positions on this page - is of the pump type, and consists of a large bottle, having enclosed four separate or mated bottles in about an ounce for holding that number of different odors. The four bottles have individual spray pipes leading to outlets or small capped nozzles of the larger bottle.

The spray pipes have small cocks on the interior, making it possible for the user to spray any single odor, several odors, or all four may be sprayed instantaneously, thus forming a mélange of the odors by opening all the cocks at once. In addition to the cut offs concealed within the bottle, each vent is equipped with a screw cap, thus making accidental leakage an impossibility. The spraying is done by means of a spring pump forcing the air through the single or several open vents, when the perfume comes out through the row of keys resembling small knobs, seen at the front of the bottle in the illustration. 

The upper section of the atomizer is of nickel plated metal, in which is located the pump. The outer base is of etched glass and is 2 1/4 inches in diameter. The small vent caps are attached by chains to prevent their being lost and the whole object measures 6 inches in height. In a limited way, this new style of atomizer has been offered to the American trade in the nickel and in the gold plated styles, either of which has a retail value of about $7.50."

During the 19th century, the parisian perfumery of Sarah Felix was famous especially for her cosmetic "L'Eau des Fées" ("Water of the Fairies"), a beard and hair dye.  This name was trademarked in 1887 by J. Bloch of Paris trading as Sarah Felix of 43 rue Richu, Paris. Sarah Felix, sister of the famous actress Rachel, exercised several jobs before becoming perfumer. At first, she too was an actress, then she tried oyster culture in Normandy, most likely for the pearls. Abandoning these activities, Sarah Felix became a true businesswoman in Paris. She dedicated herself to perfumery, in particular to her infamous "L'Eau des Fées", from 1866. To help launch this product, she was associated with an engineer, a pharmacist, and a physician. She also benefited from the protection of the imperial family. A lawsuit between the associates and the 1870 war hindered the company's early days, but "L'Eau des Fées" persevered and became the company's best selling product. The "Parfumerie des Fées" completed the range of its cosmetics with creams, powders, etc.

The four chambered atomizer was invented and patented under the Sarah Felix name in 1912. It was called the "Vaporisateur des Fees". The Sarah Félix company was still owned by Bloch and by 1920 was known as Robert Bloch of Paris, who specialized in these atomizers with multiple "jets".

Opening & Closing

Some buyers may be interested in seeing if your bottle's plunger works.

To open, place your finger or thumb on top of the plunger, press and turn counterclockwise a quarter turn. The plunger should pop right up. Now press down onto the plunger several times and see if air is emitted from the nozzle. You could also fill the bottle with water to see if it will spray.

To close, place your finger or thumb onto the plunger, then the plunger pushes down into the mount head and locks in with a quarter turn clockwise. Do not try to pry the plunger off of the mount head or you will snap it off. Unfortunately, I have seen the remnants and damage caused by people unaware of how to open or close these properly.

Cleaning

Looking at your bottle , the mount has two parts, the upper part and the lower part, to open the bottle to clean it out or to add perfume, you can place your hand around the top part above the seam and give it a twist. These are usually on pretty tight, try some WD40 or other lubricant in the seam, but don't attempt damage by using pliers or other tools to try to get it open.When you get the bottle open, look at the very bottom of the plunger mount, sometimes you can find mount manufacturer's markings here on this part of the metal. A soaking in vinegar often removes verdigris from brass mountings. You can use a small brush to scrub away any stubborn verdigris.

Mountings

The bottles have small nozzles from which the perfume was emitted. To guard against leakage, these nozzles had a tiny screw on cap which attached to the mount by a little chain.

The hardware mounts were made of brass, bronze, silver, gold, pewter, or molded lead. They were generally plated with gold, silver or nickel, and in the 1930s, chrome. Most of the atomizer hardware was Made in France, but others were made here in America and in England. French hardware is usually marked "Brevete" , "Depose" , "Modele Depose", or "Bte. SGDG".

People often mistake these markings for manufacturer's marks but in reality:

• Brevete means " Patented" 
• Depose means " registered" 
• Marque de Fabrique: this word means trade mark.
• Marque déposée: trademark
• Modele Depose: Registered Design
• Bté. SGDG: means " patented." It is shortened from the phrase Breveté Sans Garantie du Gouvernement  which means " Patented without State Guarantee."

One mark you should look for is the "TM" logo for Theophilus Martin, a French silversmith operating around 1904. His mountings can usually be found on Daum-Nancy, Galle and other bottles.

The Bottles

The glass for the atomizer bottles were usually French, Bohemian, American or English. Baccarat was responsible for many of the heavy cut glass  bottles you may find in your travels. Other companies such as Lalique, Galle, Saint-Louis and Daum Nancy also made bottles for these atomizers. The glass is rarely marked, but sometimes you might find the acid etchings of Lalique, Daum Nancy and Baccarat. Lalique bottles often have atomizer mounts by Marcas et Dardel (often misspelled Marcas et Bardel) and Marcel Franck.

Extremely rare bottles may have dual, triple or quadruple chambered compartments for different scents, each with its own nozzle.

Marcel Franck

 The major company that dominated the scene was the firm of Marcel Franck. Marcel Franck still manufactures atomizer hardware for perfume bottles today. Marcel Franck had French patents for his perfume atomizer hardware, most prolific was "L'Escale", "Fizz", and "Le Kid".

The atomizer mountings marked "La Provencale" and "Le Parisien"were attributed to Marcel Franck, but current information assures us that it is not the work of Marcel Franck, "Le Parisien" was used by Marcas et Dardel. Some of these mounts were engraved, molded or tooled with floral designs or other motifs.

The Jewelers' Circular, Volume 87, 1923:

"In this same illustration is shown "Le Parisien," an atomizer of distinction. It is of Baccarat crystal, hand painted and decorated and of genuine Galle's etched glass. The tops are of nickel, silver or gold plate. In style and construction they are  quite different from the usual atomizer."

The mid 1920s, brought forth the Le Kid atomizers by Marcel Franck were meant for the purse or pocket. They were smaller versions of the piston pump atomizers and came in a variety of finishes in materials such as the extremely popular mother of pearl, lizard skin, enamel, nickel plate, snake skin, brass, shagreen,  galalith (French Bakelite), gold plate, tortoiseshell, enamel, eel skin.

c1923 advertisement for Le Kid and Floris, atomizers by Marcel Franck.

Marcel Franck's Le Kid atomizers proved so popular that a rival company, Aromys of Paris decided to create their own version of the little purse atomizer which they called L'Aiglon (the Eaglette) in 1929, in three different sizes, and marketed them for " the purse, the pocket or the voyage". L'Aiglon was also available in a variety of finishes such as enamel, mother of pearl, galalith, rhodoid (an early plastic), nacrolaque (a plastic similar to Bakelite) and brass.

Bijou (maker unknown at this time):

Dry Goods Economist, Volume 66, Issue 4, 1912:

"Miniature Pocket Atomizer. Illustrated on this page is a neat pocket atomizer imported by the ECONOMIST, but which can be obtained in this market, is about 3 inches in length and 3/4 inch width. It unscrews from the top for filling purposes.

The little nozzle on the side, at the top, is where the spray is forced. At the end of the chain is attached, a small screw cap. Which covers the nozzle when not in use. The atomizer works on the order of a bicycle pump. In nickel, it retails for 50 cents and up according to finish. It can also be gold plated. There is also on the market, a large all-metal atomizer heavily nickel plated which is an improvement over the average atomizer."

Ingram's Patented Perfume Atomizer c1890s

Sprays ten different perfumes.

(No Model.)

F. P. INGRAM.

ATOMIZER.

No. 481,951. Patented Sept. 6, 1892.

FREDERICK F. INGRAM, OF DETROIT, MICHIGAN.

ATOMIZER.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 481,951, dated September 6, 1892.

Application filed March 12, 1892.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, FREDERICK F. INGRAM, a citizen of the United States, residing at Detroit, county of Wayne, State of Michigan, have invented a certain new and useful Improvement in Atomizers; and I declare the following to be a. full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, which form a part of this specification.

My invention relates to certain new and useful improvements in atomizers, and has for its objects, more particularly, the construction of a stock or sample atomizer in which a variety of perfumes may be conveniently stored in readiness for use, means being provided whereby any desired perfume may be atomized. My invention does not, however, limit the use to which the atomizer may be applied, whether for sampling a stock of perfumes or otherwise; but it is obviously a great convenience in selling perfumes especially to have means at hand whereby a stock of perfumes may be readily tested or sensed one after another by the purchaser.

To these ends my invention consists of the devices and appliances, their construction, combination, and arrangement, hereinafter specified and claimed, and illustrated in the accompanying drawings, in which Figure 1 is a vertical cross-section of a device embodying my invention on the line so 00 of Fig. 2. Fig. 2 is a plan view of the same. Fig. 3 is a separate View of the label.

As shown in the drawings, A represents a metal casting constituting a body or case constructed with a series of perfume cells or receptacles a, ten receptacles being indicated herewith. These receptacles are closed at their base and are provided, in the form indicated in the drawings, with a contracted neck at a to receive a stopper or cork B. While I do not limit myself solely to such a construction, I find it convenient, economical, and desirable for many reasons to construct the body or case A of an integral casting with the receptacles or cells a cast therein. In this casting as first taken from the mold both ends of said cells are open. The base of the cells are closed in any desired manner, as

Serial No. 424,666. (No model.)

by soldering or otherwise, applying thereto a metal plate A to seal the bottom of the receptacles. In the form shown, moreover, the center of the casting is left hollow, as shown at A At a central point in the top of the casting a socket a may be formed, whereby the device may be suspended and rotated upon a spindle 0' upon a standard 0.

While the body A may conveniently be made cylindrical and rotatable, yet my invention is not limited thereto, as the body containing the cells may be stationary, the base 0 and spindle 0 being dispensed with. So, also, the cells may be arranged in a linear series or in any other desired form, instead of in a circle, without departing from my invention, which contemplates the arrangement of the cells in any desired form; nor do I limit myself to the formation of the perfume cells or tubes a in an integral casting alone, as a series of perfume bottles or other receptacles may be grouped in a corresponding manner, so as to be operated as hereinafter specified. I prefer to engage with each of the stoppers B atomizer-tubes D of any desired construction.

E denotes an ordinary elastic bulb. The tubes D and bulb E are so constructed that the bulb may be readily connected with any one of the tubes D and disconnected therefrom, as by a slip-joint at cl, so that the one bulb may operate all the tubes D in any order desired. By so constructing the device that one bulb will answer to operate all the atomizer-tubes the construction is rendered more compact, neat, and economical.

I do not limit myself to the use of a bulb alone to operate the atomizer-tubes. The bulb acts practically, as is well known, as an air pump. Any other form of a pump desired and suitable may be used instead thereof.

F denotes a label, made of any suitable material, perforated, as shown, at f for the passage of the stopper, the outer edge of the label projecting forward of the stopper and bearing thereupon the name of the perfume contained in the corresponding cell. As so constructed the stopper holds the label in place. The stoppers B are each provided, preferably, with an elongated stem or tube 1), as shown.

While I have described this invention as an atomizer for perfumes more particularly, the body or case may be used for other purposes, if desired, without departing from my invention, either with or Without the atomizer tubes, or with simply a stopper of any desired construction.

What I claim as my invention is- 1. In an atomizer, a series of receptacles, each provided With atomizer-tubes, and a bulb or pump having a detachable connection with any and all of said tubes, substantially as described.

2. In an atomizer, a body or case having a series of integral receptacles, each provided with atomizer-tubes, and a bulb or pump to engage and operate any and all of said tubes, substantially as described.

3. In an atomizer, a body or case constructed of an integral casting having a series of receptacles therein, each receptacle provided with atomizer-tubes, and a bulb or pump to' operate said tubes, substantially as described.

4:. In an atomizer, a metal body or case constructed with a series of cells or receptacles closed at the base and each formed with a neck at the upper end, stoppers engaged in said necks, said stoppers each provided with atomizer-tubes, and a bulb or pump to operate said tubes, substantially as described.

5. In an atomizer, a revolving body or case provided with a series of receptacles, said receptacles each provided with atomizer-tubes, and a bulb to operate said tubes, substantially as described.

6. In an atomizer, a cast-metal body or case provided with a series of receptacles formed integral therewith, the interior of the body formed hollow, and a standard supporting said body, substantially as described.

7. In an atomizer, a body or case provided with a series of receptacles, stoppers provided with atomizer-tubes engaged in said receptacles, a pump or bulb to operate said tubes, and labels held in place by said stoppers, substantially as described.

8. The case or body herein described, consisting of a casting provided with a series of cells cast integral therewith, said cells arranged in an annular series about the outer portion of said body, said casting provided with a hollow center open at the base and covered at the top, substantially as described.

In testimony whereof I sign this specification in the presence of two witnesses.

FREDERICK F. INGRAM.

Witnesses:

N. S. WRIGHT, J. F. MILLER.

Vintage Devilbiss Imperial Series Atomizer Perfume Bottle on Ebay!!!

Rare!! On Ebay this week.... http://www.ebay.com/itm/191192983328?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Robert Heller's Perfume Vaporizer c1865

Robert Heller's Perfume Vaporizer dates to 1865. I saw a small ad in an 1865 newspaper that mentions this is a new device. Though one can also find these in the same shape, packaged in the same manner and manufactured by Gilbertson of London, England.

The device consists of two glass tubes, held together by gilded brass mountings.

In order to use the device, you would insert the longer tube into the perfume bottle, the hold your finger over the area where the two tubes connect, then put the other end between your lips and blow, then the perfume is expelled from the bottle.

Vintage 1920s Gironde Gilded and Enameled Perfume Atomizer

Vintage Gironde Brass Perfume Atomizer. Original tags still attached.

Vintage 1920s Gironde Perfume Dropper & Atomizer Set - Vaseline Glass

Vintage 1920s Gironde Perfume Dropper & Atomizer Set - Vaseline Glass and gilded accents, original hardware and hang tags. Each stand 6" tall.

Vintage 1920s Gironde Green Stem Perfume Atomizer

It stands about 7 inches tall and has a green glass stem , a blue body, and gilt decoration in a very Art Deco style.  It is an added plus that this has the original Gironde label.

Antique 1920s Mignon Perfume Atomizer with Silhouettes

Great French cut glass atomizer by Mignon.  Body of perfume is cut clear glass with three panels.   Each panel has a black silhouette of a woman.  Gold hardware has some wear.  Signed on the bottom.  Very good condition, minor wear as pictured, atomizer is soft.  6.75" tall bottle.

ZaSu Pitts and Devilbiss Perfume Atomizers c1932

ZaSu Pitts stars alongside Slim Summerville and Fifi D'Orsay in the 1932 film They Just Had To Get Married. On ZaSu's vanity table we can see several perfume bottles including two DeVilbiss Imperial Series bottles, also on the vanity are some jeweled Czech or Austrian flacons as well.

In this closeup of the photobelow, you can see she has her hands on one of the DeVilbiss Imperial atomizers and the other one is towards the back of the vanity along the mirror. Just before this bottle is a jeweled Czech perfume flacon. To the right we see a very tall atomizer, it is probably fromCzechoslovakia but has the French style hardware. A jeweled glass powder jar in in front of ZaSu.

Esther Ralston and Perfume Atomizer c1920s

Esther Ralston holding a DeVilbiss? perfume atomizer at her vanity table, in this c1920s Paramount Pictures publicity photo.

photo from worthpoint